Buying Quality Community Trees


    What does that mean?

    • Buying trees is like buying anything else: you need 1) to write detailed specifications before seeking bids, and 2) to check over the actual trees on delivery.

     

    Why is it important?

    • The first step in avoiding future hazard trees is to plant high quality stock.
    • Poor stock will end up costing you much more money in the long run because of
    1. increased rates of maintenance
    2. shorter life span.
    • The best insurance: deal with a reputable nursery, establish careful specifications, reserve the right to reject upon delivery, and get a two-year warranty if possible.

     

    But can’t you save a lot of money by buying cheap trees?

    • If you have a knowledgeable and critical eye, it is possible to save money.
    • But trees are usually cheap for a reason: they may be an undesirable species, they can have diseases, they often show poor structure, they may have dried out, and so forth.

     

    What do you look for?

    • OVERALL

    -- health and vigor (at least 4-6" between the old bud scar and the end of the twig)

    -- symmetrical general form, with a balance between height and spread

    -- freshly dug trees grown for your particular use in a climate similar to yours

    • CROWN

    -- a single and undamaged central leader (except for certain ornamental trees)

    -- well-spaced branches that are evenly distributed around the trunk

    -- no branches below 48" from the ground

    -- no branches with a narrow angle to the trunk (except for trees like Japanese zelkova)

    -- no sign of insects or diseases (egg masses, leaf problems, grubs, etc.)

    • TRUNK

    -- a straight trunk, with no damage except minor scrapes and cuts

    -- the caliper size you need (in an urban situation, at least 2" is often specified)

    -- no recent pruning wounds

    -- no signs of insects (e.g., borer holes) or disease (e.g., sunken areas)

    • ROOTS

    -- a well developed root system, but not a dense mass from being pot-bound

    -- no girdling roots--make sure to look, or at least reach your hand down

    -- if balled and burlapped, only natural burlap or wire baskets

    -- a rootball sized to the height of the tree (see American Standard for Nursery Stock)

     

    Where can I get more information?

    "Selecting Trees: A Guide to Purchasing Quality Trees" (1994, American Association of Nurserymen/American Forests), available from your local Cooperative Extension or DEC office, and also from the Community Forestry Education Project at 716-461-1000.