BASICS
MANUAL
Cornell
Cooperative Extension
BUNNY
BASICS
MANUAL
A
beginner’s guide written by Ulster County 4-H Members in the hopes of bringing
rabbits and people together in positive ways.
Contributing
Writers:
Melissa
Carboni, Jessie Churchill, Kelly-Rose Gibbons,
Allison
Reidy, Dorothy Shanahan-Roberge, & Rebecca Wells
Contributing
Artists:
James
Burkins, Melissa Carboni, Jaime Churchill,
Loralee
Reidy, & Robert Reidy
Editors:
Melissa
Carboni, 4-H Member
Brandie
Gibbons, 4-H Leader
Kelly
Ann Radzik, Extension Educator
This
project was made possible by a grant from the New York State 4-H Foundation.
What
Can 4-H Teach You About Rabbits?
An
Introduction by Member-Editor Melissa Carboni
4-H
is a program that encompasses many different aspects of learning and activities.Although
you can learn a lot about rabbits from books, the hands-on experience you
get from participating in a 4-H club will be more rewarding and fun.Some
examples of things that you might learn from 4-H are listed below.They
are also the titles of the chapters we have written for this manual.
Before
you get a rabbit, it is good to know what kind of expenses you might encounter.
How
Do I Pick a Healthy Rabbit?How
Do I Prepare for a Rabbit Emergency?
Taking
care of your rabbit is very important if you want to enjoy your rabbit
for a long time. However, it might not be as easy as you think.
Grooming
your rabbit is not just to make it pretty; it also has a big part in your
rabbit’s health. If you are not careful of your rabbit’s cleanliness, your
rabbit could be affected in many ways.
Still
not sure when and what you should be doing with your rabbit?Read
this summary of the basics that need to be remembered when caring for your
rabbit.
Read
some of our experiences and find out what has happened to us while owning
rabbits.
This
is a list of books and other references we use for our 4-H projects.
How
Do I Join 4-H?
We
didn’t include a chapter on this because it’s so easy to do.Just
call your local Cornell Cooperative Extension Office and ask for the 4-H
Program.
Important
Note: This
guide is just the first step in getting ready to share your life with a
rabbit.It is not meant to be comprehensive.For
health-related concerns, always check with a qualified veterinarian.
Rabbits
are not expensive pets, but they do cost money.Here’s
our best estimate of what it can cost to own a rabbit.
Start-Up
Costs (One time)
ItemEstimated
Cost
Cage
(1 sq. ft. per lb.)$30-$50
Water
Crock$0.89-$3.00
Water
Bottle (Optional)$3.00-$9.00
Feeder$1.00-$6.50
Metal
Garbage Can (Food Storage)$13.00
Food
Scoop (Optional)$1.00-3.00
Food
(50 lb. bag)$6.00-$10.00
Hay(1
bale)$3.00
Treats
(Optional)$1.00-$2.00
Carrier$10.00-$15.00
Nail
Clippers$4.00-$6.00
Pumice
Stone$2.00
Rabbit
Care Book$13.00
TOTAL$87.89-$135.50
Maintenance
(Per Year Cost for Medium-Sized Rabbit)
Food$12.00-$20.00
Hay$18.00
Shavings$9.00
Equipment
Replacement$5.00
TOTAL**$44.00-$52.00
**This
does not include special circumstances like veterinary care.
How
Do I Choose the Right Breed?
Jessie
Churchill
Kritter
Keepers 4-H Club
The
Importance of Breeds:
It
is important to learn about the different breeds of rabbits because breed
affects size, temperament, and maintenance.Size
is an important factor because larger rabbits require more space and food,
and are heavier to pick up.They
also generally have good temperaments.For
your first rabbit, you probably want to select a breed that is known for
its good temperament and is easy to maintain.
Breed
TypeExamples
MEATNew
Zealand, Californian, and Satin.
PETNetherland
Dwarf, Mini Lop, Holland Lop, and Dutch
WOOLAngoras,
American Fuzzy Lops, and Jersey Woolies
The
Meat Breeds
Meat
breeds are medium to large-sized, averaging 9 to 12 lbs.They
are generally calm and require an average amount of care, so they make
good pets for older children.Because
of their larger size, they have a high food intake; so they generally cost
more to maintain.
The
Pet Breeds
These
small to medium-sized breeds are most often kept as pets.They
are fairly calm and have a medium food intake.Most
require an average amount of care.The
smaller breeds may be less calm than the medium-sized, so we recommend
medium-sized (5 to 6 lbs.) for young beginners.
The
Wool Breeds
These
medium-sized breeds are high maintenance.Their
wool requires daily grooming.They
are moderately calm and have a fairly low food intake.
Before
you bring a bunny home, read all about the breed in The American Rabbit
Breeders’ Association’s Standard of Perfection.
Melissa
Carboni
Ulster
County Muttmasters 4-H Club
When
purchasing a rabbit, a health check is an easy way to see if the rabbit
is in good health.In addition,
a health check should be done at least once or twice a year on the rabbits
that you own.
The
Health Check:
Nose The
nose should be clean and dry.A discharge
from the nose and crusty fur on the front legs would indicate that the
rabbit has a cold.It can also indicate
a serious disease called snuffles.
TeethThe
front teeth should line up with a slight overlap present.If
one set of teeth is longer than normal, it indicates that the rabbit has
malocclusion or buckteeth.Rabbits
with this condition will have to have their teeth trimmed regularly by
a veterinarian.
Front/Hind
Feet
A
rabbit’s legs should stretch out straight and have five toenails on the
front feet and four toenails on the hind feet.Also
check the bottom of the front and hind feet for redness, which would indicate
sore hocks.Sore hocks are treatable
with udder balm, but can be an indicator of poor cage sanitation.When
treating a rabbit with sore hocks, place a board in the rabbit’s cage to
keep sore skin up off of the wire.
StomachBy
running your hand over the rabbit’s belly, feel for any abscesses that
may be present.An abscess must be
drained to prevent further infection.Check
genitals for discharge or malformations.
TailThe
tail should also stretch out straight.The
presence of a crooked tail would indicate wry tail.The
tail should also be clean from any urine or droppings.
Body
Condition
Overall
the body should be clean, smooth and firm.
What
you needHow
You Use It
Cotton
BallsThese
are used to clean wounds and apply medicine.
Cotton SwabsCotton swabs are used to remove ear wax and ear mite crust.They also can be used to swab the inside of a rabbit’s ear with mineral oil to prevent and kill mites.
Gauze
(rolled)Rolled gauze is useful for
wrapping up an infected wound.
Waterproof Used
to keep gauze on the wound.
Adhesive
Tape
Nail
ClippersClippers are used to shorten
the rabbit’s toenails about once a month.Human
nail clippers may be used if special safety clippers made for rabbits are
not available.
Styptic
PowderThis item can be found at feed
stores or pet shops.It is useful
when the quick in a rabbit’s toenail begins to bleed if cut too
short. When the nail is covered in styptic powder, the bleeding will decrease,
then stop. Cornstarch is sometimes suggested, but it doesn’t work very
well.
ScissorsThis
item comes in handy for cutting bandages off and trimming hair from around
wounds.
Eye
DropperIt may be necessary to give
a rabbit medicine through an eye dropper in the mouth.
PapayaEither
dried papaya or papaya tablets can be given as a supplement to rabbits
to prevent wool block.
Mineral
OilThis type of oil should be put
in a rabbit ear every three days at ten-day intervals to treat ear mites.
Antibiotic
CreamThis cream is soothing and suitable
for treating sore hocks and other infections or cuts.
Hydrogen
PeroxideBoth
of these easy to find solutions are good for
&
Rubbing Alcoholsterilizing cuts and
cleaning your own hands after cleaning the rabbit’s cut.
DisinfectantAsk
your veterinarian to recommend a disinfectant for cages and equipment.This
is especially important in cleaning up after a sick rabbit to avoid spreading
the illness.
GlovesIt
is important to protect yourself and your rabbit by wearing plastic gloves.
By using gloves, an infection is less likely to occur.
To
Make the Kit:
After
you have collected all the materials above, transfer the liquid cleaners
into small plastic bottles and then label them.Other
materials should be placed in plastic bags to assure they are as clean
as possible.
How
Do I Get Ready for an Outdoor Rabbit?
Melissa
Carboni
·Don’t
place the hutch in direct sunlight.Rabbits
are sensitive to heat and heatstroke can result.
·Make
sure the hutch is high enough off the ground so that it is well ventilated
and your rabbit is safe from other animals.
·Make
sure the hutch is built from safe materials.Be
sure that the rabbit cannot come in contact with paint and sharp wires
or nails.
The
Specifics:
When
building or choosing a hutch, make sure that it is large enough so that
the rabbit can move around freely. The
cage should approximately measure one square foot for every pound of rabbit.The
floor of the cage should be built from wire with a one inch by one-half
inch grid, so that the rabbit’s feet cannot go through and get caught in
the wire.A note on wire floors:A
wire floor allows for the rabbit droppings to fall through so your rabbit
doesn’t have to sit on dirty shavings.It
also makes the cage easier to clean.You
should also provide a wooden surface for the rabbit to sit on.A
small, untreated board works well.
It
is important that rabbits have an enclosed area within their hutches so
that they can get out of bad weather or away from other animals.During
the winter, it is important to place a sheet of plastic around the sides
of the cage to protect the rabbit from snow and cold.
A
Serious Consideration:
If
you decide to keep your rabbit outside, remember that you cannot
bring the rabbit inside during the winter because you think it’s too cold.Rabbits
need time to adjust.If for some
reason you decide your rabbit will be happier in the house, wait until
spring when the temperature outside is similar to the temperature inside
of your house.
Handy
with tools?Several of the books
listed in the bibliography have plans for building your own rabbit hutch.
How
Do I Bring My Rabbit Home?
Rebecca
Wells
The
easiest way to bring your rabbit home is to use an appropriate-sized pet
carrier.You can also use a wire
cage with a metal pan to keep the rabbit from sitting in its droppings.Cardboard
boxes are not always a good way to transport your rabbit home because urine
can soak through the box, ending up on the car seat or your lap.If
the car ride home is long, you may want to provide your rabbit with a piece
of carrot or apple as a source of moisture for the trip.
Getting
Your Rabbit Used to Its New Home:
When
you first get your rabbit home give it a few days to adjust to its new
surroundings before you handle it a lot.Start
off by talking to and petting it in the cage.When
the rabbit seems to be comfortable with you, take it out of the cage in
the appropriate way and hold the rabbit in your lap.If
the rabbit becomes restless put it back in the cage allowing the rabbit
to take a break.
When
you handle your rabbit, make sure it is comfortable.You
want the rabbit to learn it’s a good experience to be out of the cage.When
you groom or handle your rabbit, you should have something soft under it
(like an old blanket) so it doesn’t have a slippery footing.By
handling and grooming your rabbit often, you will make it a more enjoyable
experience for both of you.A rabbit
should never be left unattended when out of its cage.When
the rabbit is not being watched, it will likely chew on any wires or wood
in the room.
Equipment:
You
can find all the equipment you need at your local pet store or in a pet
catalog. You will need:
·a
feeder
·a
water crock
·a
water bottle (optional)
·a
small garbage can (or other storage container)
·a
food scoop (optional)
There
are a few types of feeders. There is one feeder called a hopper
that hooks to the side of the cage so that you can feed your rabbit without
opening the cage. This one, I believe, is the most convenient. There are
also metal feeders that hook to the inside of the cage. You can also use
a crock to feed your rabbit.
Equipment
used to give water may change seasonally.The
water bottle can be used only in the summer because it will freeze quickly
over the winter, preventing your rabbit from drinking.The
other is the water crock, which you can use all year round. In the winter,
if the water freezes in the crock all you have to do is hit it up against
something hard and the ice will come out. Avoid
using a crock for lop-eared rabbits to prevent frozen ears.
A
small metal garbage can is useful to keep your rabbit food in.You
should keep the food in a garage or closed-in place so that other animals
cannot get to it.It is best to
store the rabbit food where moisture will not affect it.An
optional tool is a food scoop to put in the garbage can so that it is easier
to take out and measure the food.
You
can also feed fruit and some vegetables as a treat.Oranges,
bananas, and apples are okay in small amounts.Baby
carrots are the best type of vegetable for rabbits if you decide to feed
vegetables.These are just treats
and should only be fed twice a week in small amounts.
·potato
peels,
·grass
that has had chemicals sprayed on it or has sat around for more than a
few hours after being cut.
You
should feed your rabbit at the same time every day, whether it is in the
morning or evening.During the winter,
you can provide your rabbit with an extra treat or scoop of food to provide
extra energy on those really cold days.During
the summer, it is sometimes better to feed them in the evening when it’s
cooler.You should always check to
make sure that your rabbit’s food is not wet or soggy.
All
the things mentioned are very important to keeping your rabbit happy and
healthy.
Litter
boxIt should be low enough for the
rabbit to jump in and out of.
LitterYou
will have the best results with a paper
product such as “Yesterdays News” or pine shavings.Cedar
shavings are not suggested because they can cause a reaction with your
rabbit.
Training
AreaA confined area with easy to clean
surfaces. (Bathroom floor as opposed to a living room rug.)
What
You Do:
1.Keep
the rabbit in the training area for a few days.The
rabbit will pick a “bathroom corner” and thus choose the area where you
should put the litter box.
2.Put
the litter box in the area the rabbit has chosen.Fill
it with some litter and some droppings.By
placing the rabbit’s droppings in the pan, the rabbit will recognize its
own smell and will return to the same spot to go to the bathroom.
3.Each
time the rabbit goes outside the box, sweep up the droppings and put them
in the box.
Remember
be patient - this is new for you and your rabbit.
Tips
to Remember:
·Be
consistent and patient.
·Older
rabbits are easier to train, but with younger ones, stick with it!
·All
rabbits will drop “pills” around their cage to mark it as their own. This
is not a failure.
Important
Safety Do’s and Don’ts for Indoor Rabbits
·Put
your rabbit back in its cage before you leave the house.
·Be
careful about what you feed your rabbit.Only
feed food especially made for rabbits or recommended for rabbits.
·Trim
your rabbit’s nails regularly, so they are short.
·Health
check your rabbit often.Check for
signs of illness and overgrown teeth and nails.
·Introduce
other pets slowly.
·Be
patient and keep your cool!
·NEVER
have curtains and wires close to your rabbit’s cage.
·NEVER
feed your rabbit iceberg lettuce.It
causes severe diarrhea.
·NEVER
let your rabbit chew on anything.
The
4-H Bunny Basics Writing Team
Guided
by Brandie Gibbons
Just
as there are different kinds of rabbits, there are different kinds of rabbit
fur.Each fur type has different
grooming requirements.
Normal
Fur
This
type of fur is soft, medium in length, and easy to maintain.It
is found on the majority of rabbit breeds including dwarfs, lops, and Dutch.
Normal
fur should be groomed with a soft comb or brush, wet washcloth, or pumice
stone at least once a week.A pumice
stone may be found in a health food store, pet shop, or body and bath shop.Avoid
harsh brushes because they can cause irritation to the rabbit’s skin.When
you groom your rabbit, work from head to tail following the natural direction
the fur lays.If you are showing
your rabbit, we recommend the pumice stone as your grooming tool.
Rex
Fur
This
fur is shorter and softer than normal fur.It
stands upright, while other fur types lie along the rabbit’s body.Rex
fur was developed from a genetic mutation and is only found on the Rex
and Mini-Rex breeds.
When
grooming a rabbit with rex fur, use a wet washcloth or pumice stone.This
type requires only occasional grooming.Harsh
brushes should not be used.They
can break the hair and damage the pelt.
Satin
Fur
This
fur can be recognized by its shiny appearance.It
lays along the rabbit’s body, reflecting light through its transparent
guard hairs.It is silky, dense,
and fine to the touch; separating it from all the other fur types.This
fur is only found on Satins and Satin Angoras.(Satin
Angoras should follow the guidelines for Wool.)
Satin
rabbits may be groomed with a wet washcloth and pumice stone.Harsh
brushes should be avoided so that the fur is not damaged.Fur
on a well-groomed Satin is beautiful, so make sure to groom it gently and
properly.
Wool
Wool
is easily recognized due to its length, texture, and unique appearance.Wool
rabbits have thick soft hair with great density and straight guard hairs.Wool
is found on Angoras, American Fuzzy Lops, and Jersey Woolies.Satin
Angoras have wool with satin sheen present in the guard hairs.It
is the finest of all wools.
Wool rabbits require the greatest amount of grooming.They may be groomed with a comb or hand plucked.This should be done on a daily basis to avoid matting.Well-groomed