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Cornell University : Cornell Cooperative Extension
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| Yates Association |
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Growing Blueberries |
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Many home gardeners are limited by climate to only the hardiest cultivars of blueberry (Northblue, Northcountry, Northland, Patriot, Bluecrop and Blueray). Growers in warmer areas can select additional cultivars (Herbert, Jersey, Rubel, Earliblue, Spartan, and Bluejay, for example). Cultivars differ in berry size, color, flavor, and period of ripening. Although cultivars are self-fertile, planting at least two different cultivars improves berry size and increases the percentage of successful pollination. Blueberries grow best on a sunny site in sandy peat soil, but they also do well in heavy soils with good aeration and drainage, high organic matter content, and adequate moisture. The most important requirement for growing blueberries is an acidic coil. If the pH of your soil is greater than 5 but less than 7, you can increase the acidity with applications of sulfur or acid peat. Soil acidity increases very slowly, so test the soil one year before planting and adjust pH and nutrient levels then if necessary. At the same time, incorporate organic matter particularly if the soil is very light and sandy. Purchase only two- or three-year-old plants from a reliable nursery. The roots of potted blueberries must be pruned before planting. Place plants in the soil as soon as they arrive in early spring. Space plants a minimum of 4 feet within rows and 10 feet between rows. Set plants 1 inch deeper than the depth in the nursery and prune them to half their original size. Remove any flowers that appear the first year. Keep plants well watered; particularly during their first two years. Do not use fertilizer the year plants are set. In early spring of the second year, before flowering, apply 4 ounces of ammonium sulfate to each plant. Increase the amount of fertilizer by 1 ounce each year until the sixth year. After this time, use 8 ounces of fertilizer per application. Supplemental fertilization with magnesium sulfate and a balanced fertilizer is often necessary. Cultivate until early July to help control weeds and prevent disease. To avoid root damage, do not cultivate deeper than 2 inches. Cultivation after July increases susceptibility to winter injury; use mulch to conserve moisture and control weeds at this point. Sawdust makes an excellent mulch. Prune in early spring when the amount of winter injury can be assessed. Proper pruning practices contribute significantly to consistent production, high yields, and fruit of good quality and help ensure a long life for the planting. The largest blueberry canes do not produce the most fruit. Rather, canes that are 1/2 to 1 inch in diameter at their base are the most productive. The ideal blueberry plant should have at most sixteen canes-one or two for each year, up to eight years of growth. Early in the ninth year, the two largest canes should be removed. If repeated annually, this practice minimizes uneven growth and production. Cornell
Cooperative Extension Yates Association |
