Fall Tips for the Gardener
Fall Tips from the M aster Gardener Hotline
Composting Fall Leaves: Fall leaves are a valuable resource because they keep garden soil productive. By following a few tried and true composting techniques, you can optimize fall-leaf composting. The minimum size for compost bins is three feet by three feet by three feet. Bins larger than six feet across may restrict oxygen infiltration and slow decomposition.
It's best to mix some nitrogen into the leaves as you add them to the compost Leaves are high in carbon, which makes great compost, but they're comparatively low in nitrogen, and that's what decomposing bacteria feed on. You can add nitrogen in the form of fertilizer or fresh green organic matter. Just add one-quarter to one-half cup of standard lawn fertilizer per bushel, or add one part dry leaves with two parts fresh grass clippings or similar green Garden debris. If you use a fertilizer, be sure to select one that doesn't contain any weed killers.
As you add leaves to the compost, moisten them until they're the consistency of a wet sponge. Check the compost regularly and water to maintain adequate moisture content. Moisture is slow to soak through a leaf pile and is essential for decomposition. Be careful not to over-water, because you don't want the leaves to be soggy. Whole leaves are better for compost than leaves that are shredded or mulched with a lawn mower. Finely chopped leaves may pack down excessively in the compost bin, restricting oxygen infiltration necessary for decomposition.
By following these simple guidelines, you can produce fall-leaf compost by late spring. An unattended pile of leaves may take two to three years to decompose.
Fall Pruning: Light pruning to remove a few small branches from trees can be done at any time of the year, but more extensive pruning should be done in late winter to early spring. The exceptions to this rule are trees such as elm, maple, walnut and birch which are "bleeders" when pruned in late winter to early spring. It is thought that oozing might interfere with the closure of pruning cuts. Oozing is reduced if these tree species are pruned in the fall.
Mowing the Lawn: Many people think they should let their grass grow high in the late fall on the theory that it will be better able to withstand the cold of winter. Actually, just the opposite is true! The last mowing of the fall should be one notch lower than the 2 - 3 inch height that you normally mow at. This will keep the grass from matting down under the snow and decrease its susceptibility to snow mold.
Protecting Plants from Rodent Damage: Fruit plants are vulnerable to damage from rodents, particularly mice. Young apple trees are most likely to be damaged, but brambles, strawberries and others can be attacked as well.
Mice begin to move from their current areas near a water source such as ponds, creeks, or swamps in November and look for food during fall and winter. Grasses growing near the trunk and mulches of grass clippings or straw are attractive to them. Keep the area next to the trunk free of all vegetation and fine mulches. Coarse mulches such as chipped bark can be used if kept free of weeds. Keep the area around your young trees mowed so predators can aid in the control of mice.
While technically not a rodent, rabbits can damage fruit trees. This usually occurs when snow covers the ground for 7 to 10 days or longer. Rabbits are attracted to the tender bark of 1 to 5 year old apple trees. Apple trees are protected by placing wire mesh or vinyl tree wraps around the trunk to a height of 18 to 20 inches from November to late March. It's been shown that young bark needs full sunlight to harden for winter. Therefore, on newly planted trees, tree guards need to be put on in November and removed in late spring for complete hardening to occur.
You can protect spring-flowering bulbs such as tulips and other non-resistant varieties, from squirrels and chipmunks by enclosing them in a cage of chicken wire when planting. Line the bottom and sides of the hole with the wire. After covering the bulbs with 1” of soil, place a sheet of chicken wire on soil and continue filling the planting hole to the correct depth.
Storing Dahlia Tubers: Lift dahlias after the first frost or before the end of October. Before lifting tubers, remove all ties. Stakes should be cleaned, repaired, and stored. Attach name labels to the base of the main stem of named cultivars and cut the foliage off leaving a three to four inch stem. Because tubers may have spread quite a distance, begin digging far enough from the plant so as not to damage them. A spading fork or spade works well for this task. For easier lifting make several cuts into the soil with the fork or spade around the clump and gently pry to raise the tubers intact.
Once the tubers are out of the soil, remove as much soil as possible without damaging the tubers. Turn the tubers upside down to drain the stem and allow the soil to dry .When dry, remove the remainder of the soil. Soil may also be washed from the tubers with water under pressure. Cut off any small roots. Remove and discard tubers that are damaged or diseased, and dust any cut surfaces with sulfur. Place the tubers in wooden flats, bushel baskets, or cardboard boxes that have a few inches of peat moss or sawdust in the bottom. Then cover them with the same packing material, leaving the stems exposed. A little moisture may be added to prevent shriveling. Place the packed tubers in a dry, 40 to 55 degree location.
Check tubers in a few weeks and again in January for signs of shriveling or fungal infection. Add a small amount of moisture if shriveling has occurred.
Harvesting Horseradish: Horseradish, a native of Eastern Europe, is an important component of the cuisines of diverse cultures. Planted in Colonial American gardens, it escaped to flourish as a wild plant. Horseradish roots set out in the spring are of harvestable size by fall. Most growth occurs in late summer and early fall, so it's best to delay harvest until October or November. Dig up the entire root. A perennial, pieces of roots left in the ground will grow the next spring, but will lack the quality of young roots. Large main roots left in the soil till spring and harvested before new growth begins will have the hottest taste.
Ripening Green Tomatoes: Tomatoes are certainly the most popular garden vegetable grown. Gardeners often find they have too many green tomatoes left on the vine as fall approaches.
One method to speed ripening is to cut back on water; this quickens the ripening process of your tomatoes. Foliage does not need to be cut back around tomatoes. Direct sunlight does not ripen them.
A second method is used when frost is anticipated. Pick the tomatoes from the vine and wrap them in paper. Keep these tomatoes in a dark place, with temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees. Check tomatoes frequently and discard decaying fruit. As you use your tomatoes they can be unwrapped, placed by a window or any other warm place to further ripen.
Remember, green tomatoes ripen only if they have already started to ripen on the inside first.
Source: http://cuyahoga.osu.edu/horticulture/TeletipsOct.html, Planttalk © Colorado State University Cooperative Extension, Denver Botanic Gardens, and Green Industries of Colorado, Inc. 1998, 1999 and Cornell Cooperative Extension Yates Association
Posted by eac9 at
11:11 AM
PR - Master Forest Owners
Forestry seminars on the Internet? Free and easy? Yes!
Cornell University's ForestConnect program continues the nation's first webcast seminar series for private forest landowners, foresters and forest enthusiasts.
Webcasts use standard Internet connections to allow forest owners to enjoy and participate in live presentations in the comfort of their home, public library, or at the Wayne County Cooperative Extension (please contact us for computer availability before coming in to view the webcast). Webcasts are the third Wednesday of each month with live presentations at noon and again at 7:00 PM. Each presentation is approximately 30 minutes with time for questions and answers.
Forest owners and enthusiasts with a broad variety of interests will be served by this initiative. The initial seminar on June 16th addressed key forestry principles. Topics of future presentation are listed below.
Presenters are technical experts from the area of forestry and natural resources. Participants must pre-register once, without charge, at
http://www.forestconnect.info/
Email notification of Internet URL details will be sent to all registrants prior to each seminar.
The ForestConnect 2007 Internet Seminar Series is designed for forest owners and forest enthusiasts from New York and the Northeast, but will interest most forest owners. Funding is provided through the Cornell University College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, Cornell University Cooperative Extension, and the USDA Renewable Resources Extension Program.
Future Topics:
June 20th: Selecting Trees During Forest Improvement Cutting
July 18th: Working With Foresters
August 15th: Timber Sale Arrangement - Payments and Contracts
September 19th: Small-Scale Firewood Production
October 17th: Creating Vernal Pools for Wildlife (tentative)
November 21st: Natural Regeneration in Your Hardwood Forest
December 19th: Don't Degrade Your Woodlot
For more information or to schedule a free woodlot visit from one of our Master Forest Owners please contact Cornell Cooperative Extension of Wayne County at (315)331-8415.
Posted by eac9 at
03:45 PM